Thierry Mugler Les Exceptions: new fragrance collection

Launching October 2014, the release of the new haute parfumerie collection celebrates the new modern direction of the MUGLER fashion house under Artistic Director, David Koma, and Director Of Development, Marketing and Communications, Virginie Courtin-Clarins.

Les Exceptions symbolizes the dynamic revamping of MUGLER fashion and fragrances. Blends of original alchemies and inventive, unique ingredients come alive in five exceptional fragrances that characterize the essence of MUGLER: Chyprissime, Supra Floral, Fougere Furieuse, Oeintal  express and Over the Musk.  Created in France by renowned noses Olivier Polge and Jean-Christophe Herault, MUGLER Les Exceptions reinterpret and magnify the great blends of traditional fine perfumery.

Each Art Deco-inspired bottle with its streamlined, faceted design - decorated with a playful metal stirrup clip - showcases the distinctive luxury and provocative architectural design that is the House of MUGLER.

The 80 ml (refillable) EDP sprays will be available nationwide starting October 2014 on www.mugler.com ($225)

The Different Company Une Nuit Magnetique: fragrance review

“But then fall comes, kicking summer out on its treacherous ass as it always does one day sometime after the midpoint of September, it stays awhile like an old friend that you have missed. It settles in the way an old friend will settle into your favorite chair and take out his pipe and light it and then fill the afternoon with stories of places he has been and things he has done since last he saw you.”
― Stephen King, 'Salem's Lot'

Even though the temperatures are nowhere close to bringing out the woolen-patch jodhpurs, the heavy jumpers and the nautical pea-coat I associate with a chair by the fire, I have played with a little light, merino wool scarf these past few crisp early mornings before the sun would rise high on the sky making me tie it on my purse's handle. Sprayed with The Different Company's latest launch, Une Nuit Magnetique, felt indeed like an old friend that I had missed. In more ways than one.

Une Nuit Magnetique by The Different Company looks dense and heavy on paper, as floral orientals sometimes do, but becomes a warm alcove of ambery woods on the skin, no rough edges, no hyper-sexualized dirty tricks. It bears the signature style of plush yet lightweight compositions for which its composer, the perfumer Christine Nagel, is acclaimed for. The sensuality of the cozier notes is unmistakeable, never cloying, a transparent "oriental" chord built on benzoin and rose with quite a bit of musk and a hint of what feels like the famous Prunol base, that enveloping material that gives a sort of raisin and mulled-in-sweet-wine plums tinge to so many classic masterpieces, from Rochas Femme to Shiseido/Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois, and on to modern iterations (see Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille by the brand of Annick Goutal where it's coupled with a very strong patchouli note). However the character of Une Nuit Magnetique remains ultimately undecipherable, despite the familiarity, almost an enemy to parsing.

I have just published a full review on Fragrantica on this link.

Fragrance notes for TDC Une Nuit Magnetique: 
Top: ginger, bergamot and blueberry;
middle: Egyptian jasmine, Turkish rose, tuberose and plum;
base: benzoin, patchouli, amber, musk and woody notes.

Perfume & Lipstick: A Game

There is no doubt that in the semiotics of pop culture perfume and lipstick are the porthole of feminine guiles, in what concerns the outer, artificial adornment at least. Many are the historical times that both had been demonized in an attempt to contain female freedom to play with one's image and aura; feminists might have viewed them at one time as symbols of cultural oppression but I opine that they offer a leeway of divesting one's self from that which has been handed out to them by nature and easily slipping into something more comfortable ~or more uncomfortable, as the whim necessitates.

Each different lipstick shade and texture suggests a different mood: satin polished effects for a rich socialite or the everyday woman, austere matte and bold color for the professional or the fashion plate, glossy translucence for the teenager attempting to map out her budding version of herself. And the same happens with perfumes: how many times have you projected your noli me tangere mood by opting for an inedible chypre, your playfulness with a fruity floral, your contemplative persona with an incense perfume or your "bursting at the seams" femininity with a scent full of the erotic thrust of tuberose?

But could the two be combined into a fun role playing game? Theoretically perfume has already embraced lipstick "notes" in famous examplars such as Drole de Rose or Lipstick Rose (F.Malle) and lipsticks for long have been aromatized with added scent that projects as alluring and feminine to reinforce that mental implication, but ho about pairing one with the other as 2 separate products>
This is our diversion today on Perfume Shrine.

The following is only a suggestion and not hard & fast rules or a typical guide. And please join the fun in the comments by suggesting your favorite pairings or habits!

Dior Addict lipstick 578 paired with Yves Saint Laurent Paris eau de toilette

Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupte in #3 Beige Ultimate with Diptyque Philosykos

Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick in 05 Mademoiselle with Love Chloe eau de parfum

Nars lipstick in Schiap with Piguet Fracas extrait

Nars lipstick in Afgan Red with Guerlain Samsara eau de parfum

Bobbi Brown Shimmer Finish lip color in Plum Shimmer with Shiseido/Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois eau de parfum

Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick in 14 Muse with Montale Blue Amber

Mac Ruby woo lipstick with Chanel No.5 eau de toilette

I'll be adding a couple more combinations & photos later on…

Evody La Collection d'Ailleurs ~Noir d'Orient, D'Ame de Pique, Ombre Fumée

La Collection d’Ailleurs is the latest chapter in the Evody story. Paying tribute to travel, the richness of nature and the diversity of different cultures, this captivating collection is brand creators Régine and Cérine’s own unique interpretation of far away places, linking their joint passions for travel and fragrance.

Noir d’Orient (from £85 for 50ml extrait de parfum)
The spice route is full of mystery – a trail of intoxicating scents, warmth, luxuriant forests and the depths of the Indian Ocean.

Noir d’Orient has been constructed around India’s olfactory diversity. The fragrance opens with a serene note of incense before revealing a heart of hot, sensual and intense spices including Cloves and Cinnamon. Finally, this heady oriental offers a rich soul of Wood, Dark Rum and Patchouli.

D’Âme de Pique (from £85 for 50ml extrait de parfum)
D’Âme de Pique is an ode to the roses from Rose Valley in the Atlas region of Morocco. Opulent and soft, exuberant and dignified these most regal of flowers are unrivalled in their beauty. Green and sparkling notes of Blackcurrant Leaf and Pear form the opening accord of this most captivating of fragrances. The heart is given up entirely to Rose, magnified by a hint of Raspberry. Finally voluptuous Sandalwood and Vanilla combine with sensual Patchouli.

Ombre Fumée (from £85 for 50ml extrait de parfum)
Drawing inspiration from the volcanic, tropical island of Reunion Ombre Fumée is a celebration of Vetiver, the intense raw material from which Reunion draws its wealth. Here Vetiver is wrapped in both fresh, green notes and mysterious, sensual notes. Invigorating Orange and Lemon give way to a soft touch of Cypress followed by a powdery note of Iris with Hot Black Pepper.

Created by mother and daughter duo, Régine Droin and Cérine Vasseur, EVODY’s distinctive fragrance collection is designed to enthrall perfume aficionados. The core range comprises eight beguiling scents, each designed to communicate the very real stories and emotions that inspired the creators. From the intensely personal Cuir Blanc, designed for Cérine when she was pregnant with her first child, to the sparkling Pomme d’Or created for Régine’s husband, a man who had never previously worn fragrance.

The dominant fragrance notes for the rest of the Evody line are as follows:
POMME D’OR – Bergamot, Sweet Lime, Juniper berries
FLEUR D’ORANGER – Mandarin, Jasmine, Orange Blossom REVE D’ANTHALA – Tiare Flower, Orchid, Jasmine, Vanilla BOIS SECRET – Bergamot, Black Pepper, Nutmeg, Tonka Bean NOTE DE LUXE – Jasmine, Bergamot, Ylang Ylang, Vanilla AMBRE INTENSE – Bay Leaf, Incense, Patchouli, Amber
CUIR BLANC – Violet Leaf, Iris, White Musk, Russian Leather MUSC INTENSE – Bergamot, Mandarin, Kashmir Wood, Musk

L'Incendiaire by Serge Lutens: the enigmatic commercial

Serge Lutens films a lonesome trip to the desert with a voiceover for his Paris Palais Royal release of L'Incendiaire fragrance. The masked loner looks like he's going to set fire to himself, but doesn't in the end. The otherworldly feel is compelling to watch.

L'Incendiaire is part of the Palais Royal line of fragrances in the bell jars, formerly under the auspices of Shiseido, alongside the fabulous cosmetics (lipsticks, foundation, makeup tools etc.)

For a full review of L'Incendiaire, you might want to check my review on Fragrantica. I'm going to post a more "personal" one on these pages too, soon. Price for the new L'Incendiaire by Serge Lutens is 600$US.